Good Eats The Spots — 09 July 2012

We don’t often run across true Italian food. Unlike the Americanized version with heavy sauces, thick noodles and pizza crusts, and an eruption of cheese over everything, true Italian is comparatively light and clean with its measured application of ingredients and a surprising amount of subtlety that has totally been lost in translation.

So we certainly weren’t expecting to get the most authentic plate of lasagna we’ve had in a while dining in The Pearl. At Fratelli, the sauce was hearty without being heavy, the cheese persistent without overwhelming everything else, and those noodles were oh-so-eggy. The happy hour menu offered up affordable, tasty small plates like braised veal meatballs and bruschetta with shaved beef.

But lest you forget this is a bar too, check out Italian-inspired cocktails like the Fratelli Cello Drop, where homemade arancello shares the glass with vodka, lemon juice and simple syrup, or the Cosmo Italiano with homemade limoncello, Absolut Citron and cranberry juice. Fratelli, it’s what’s for dinner.

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